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The Dutch company Re&Up is transforming the fashion industry with groundbreaking textile recycling technology. Their process segregates polycotton blends into pure materials, creating high-performance, traceable fibers from waste. With a €70M boost from Proparco, Re&Up aims to scale recycling capacity to 1 million tons by 2030, powered by renewable energy. Re&Up’s innovation joins other sustainable initiatives like heat-soluble threads and citrus-based fabrics, marking a significant step towards a more circular and eco-friendly fashion future.

Why this is important:

Only a small share of textiles is recycled, with the rest ending up in landfills that pollute the environment and entire African rivers. Increasing recycle rates is paramount.

The fashion industry is a major contributor to global carbon emissions, accounting for 10% of the total. Since 2000, clothing production has doubled, while the lifespan of garments has halved. Consequently, 85% of global textiles end up in landfills each year, contributing to significant environmental pollution. Innovations like Re&Up’s recycling technology are vital in addressing these challenges and promoting sustainability in the fashion sector.

The European Union’s Waste Framework Directive mandates separate collection of textile waste by Member States before January 2025. Only 13% of textile input is recycled, leading to substantial waste and CO2 emissions.

Re&up’s innovative recycling process

Re&Up’s recycling technology employs a combination of advanced mechanical and thermomechanical methods to segregate polycotton blends into new pure materials. This process results in two primary outputs: recycled cotton and advanced polyester. The recycled cotton is transformed into new fibers compatible with conventional spinning methods, while the advanced polyester replaces oil-derived synthetics, reducing reliance on non-renewable resources.

The technology ensures better resource efficiency and a reduced environmental impact compared to using virgin materials. By converting textile waste into high-performance fibers, Re&Up supports a circular economy where materials are continually reused and recycled. This innovative approach is crucial as the fashion industry faces mounting pressure to address its significant waste and environmental footprint.

Funding and expansion

Re&Up’s recent €70M senior loan from Proparco, a subsidiary of the Agence Française de Développement Group, will significantly bolster its operations. This funding will facilitate the construction of a new textile-to-textile recycling factory in Gaziantep, Turkey. This is Proparco’s second loan to Re&Up; the first was €37M in 2021 for sustainable investments within SANKO’s textile subsidiary. The company aims to achieve over 200,000 tons of annual recycling production capacity by 2025 and scale this to over 1 million tons by 2030.

A new era for sustainable fashion

Re&Up is part of a broader movement towards sustainability in the fashion industry. Other companies are also innovating to reduce waste and environmental impact. For instance, Resortecs has developed a heat-soluble sewing thread that simplifies garment disassembly, while Orange Fiber creates silk-like fabrics from citrus pulp. These innovations highlight the industry’s potential to reinvent itself through sustainable practices.

Re&Up’s advancements in textile recycling, coupled with substantial financial backing, position the company as a leader in the push towards a circular economy. By setting ambitious recycling targets and leveraging cutting-edge technology, Re&Up is paving the way for a more sustainable and eco-friendly fashion future. Their efforts demonstrate that with the right support and innovation, the fashion industry can significantly reduce its environmental impact and move towards a more circular model.